"Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life."
The first sense that hit me upon hustling into Paul Knorr's 2017 FW collection show space at LFW isn't the blinding lights, but the nonchalant, almost-hallucinating music floating in the air mixed with soft conversations and continuous flashlights. I knew right then a truly exciting presentation awaits.
This is the German rising star designer's second showcase after graduating from London's Royal College of Art. At the beginning stage of this collection, artists and their creative developments were explored. She then found out that compared to visual artists, musicians never truly leave their work behind, and their creative process is never-ceasing. Inspired, Knorr used her own body as a primary tool, and was very dependent on her sensory perception. Voila, and a new portrayal of senses in women's fashion is born.
Metallic leather, layers of chiffon and flowing silk completed the feast of clashing fabrics that is "Music in My Mind". The womenswear designer acknowledged and funded by British Fashion Council's NEWGEN program created this impression of tinted skin, also harmonising metallics and silk. There were stiff silhouettes and there were supple ripples; they were revealing, but then they were concealing, the consistency lies in the gaze-attracting charm you just can't resist.
The charm of a fashion presentation beyond a runway is that it creates a scene. While the band Madsiusivanda is performing like they would on a lazy Sunday afternoon, models were seen some sitting slightly slouched, some softly leaning against posts, some casually crossing legs and some walking firmly. The unignorable strength and confidence behind their nonchalant elegance is the power given to them by Paula Knorr.
(All photos are taken by myself)
走進Paula Knorr 2017年倫敦時裝週秋冬系列的展示廳，我的第一個感官不是絢麗的燈光，而是Madsiusovanda樂團慵懶而迷幻的樂音迴盪在空間中，混著交談聲和不間斷的快門聲，我知道，一場精彩的展示在前方等待著我。
這是德國新銳設計師Paula Knorr在2015年於倫敦皇家藝術學院畢業後的第二場展示。在此系列的發展階段，她探索了藝術家與他們的創作過程，並發現相較於視覺藝術家，音樂家從未真正的離開過他們的藝術品，創作過程也是從未停歇的。受到他們的啟發，Paula Knorr在創作過程中將自己的身體作為主要工具，並十分依賴於她的感官知覺，在兩者的交織之下，一個對女性時尚範疇裡個人感官定位的重新詮釋就此誕生。
”Music in My Mind”這個系列中，這位得到英國時尚協會NEWGEN計畫的認可和資助的女裝設計師運用了大量的皮革、流動似的絲綢和層次感的薄紗，營造出染色肌膚的鮮明印象。金屬光澤的用色和柔順的綢緞衝突亦和諧，時而生硬的剪裁、時而柔軟的皺摺，同樣的是它們讓人捨不得將視線移開的魅力。
After searing through the motorcycle expedition across the wilderness with Anne-France Dautheville, it’s time to “bring it back to the city”, as the creative director Clare Waight Keller said, and obviously, it is back to the city of light and love. The sensual and muffled vocals of Yves Tumor filled the hall, and a girl in a crisp-white corset-like top and black trousers high on the waist, ballooning above the ankle strode down the runway just as she would on Rue Saint Honoré, hands in the button-rimmed pockets.
More Chloé girls in black and white followed, one in voluminous-sleeved blouses and tailored shorts tied by dangling thin bow straps, another one in multi-pocketed short tracksuit and all of them in neutral colours of simple strap heels.
A breeze seared through as the floating of the white sheer pleated maxi dress with a sailor’s bib style front and black accents at the bottom created the illusion of the very moment an inkdrop hits the clear fluid, visualising different shades of black. Besides classic French hues like navy, beige, black and white, Pantone’s 2017 spring fashion colour “Pale Dogwood” and “Promise Yellow” also made it into Waight Keller’s feminine and romantic colour palette. The soft petal pink shade was seen on the tunic dress with chunky bows tied on the shoulders, and the warm saturated yellow welcomed attention as the lace-defined frocks swayed its way down the catwalk.
While all the frills and breezy skirts gave us 2005 Phoebe Philo nostalgia, another highlight of the “urban in innocence” scene is the 1970s wallpaper floral patterns that is the essence of the maison. Print it on the tiered one-shoulder and pair it with the Faye backpack or the half-moon bag with a gold hoop handle, and Chloé’s take on hippy chic draws the curtain.
“One morning, I woke up thinking, ‘I will make a little collection of charming dresses in very pretty colours that women will fancy.’” Gaby Aghion recalled in the 2013 book Cholé: Attitudes. Sixty-four years later, Britain-born Clare Waight Keller re-realised the brand founder’s little idea with her interpretation of the flou and Parisian femininity that is exclusively Chloé.
(Photo resource: vogue.com)
Meg is a full-time fashion journalism student at London College of Fashion, University of the Arts London. She moved to London at the age of 18 to pursue her dreams of becoming a writer.